Spring Cleaning Tips from Consumers Reports

 

As warmer months draw near, nagging household chores that have been swept under the rug all winter become a priority. Spring cleaners who want to scour their homes from the top down can benefit from these spring cleaning tips from Consumer Reports. 

Their cleaning experts created a list of helpful tips for tackling the tough jobs.

“Most people change the sheets, flip the mattress and vacuum the baseboards, but spring cleaning can be taken a step further to a deep clean,” said Pat Slaven, program leader for Consumer Reports. “Take advantage of this time of year to not only organize your home but also save money by tackling the tasks that you may have hired out in the past.”

For best results that will preserve the quality of household items over time, Consumer Reports recommends these spring cleaning Dos and Don’ts:

Ceiling Fans:

Fan blades and housing should be cleaned with a damp cloth and all-purpose cleaner or mix of water and mild liquid dish detergent, unless the care information says otherwise.

• DO make annual cleaning easier by dusting blades once a season with a U-shaped brush. The blade fits inside the U, so both sides are cleaned simultaneously.
• DON’T forget to dry the blades thoroughly. Damp blades attract dust.

Windows:

For clean, streak-free glass, apply cleaner to windows with a slightly dampened sponge. Wipe across the window with dampened squeegee blade, then wipe blade.

• DO clean from the top down on a cloudy day or when the windows are in shade.
• DON’T clean windows in the sun. Direct sunlight can cause the cleaner to evaporate before it is wiped off.

Curtains and Drapes:

Freshen curtains and drapes by vacuuming with the soft brush or dusting attachment and set on reduced suction to prevent fabric from being drawn into the nozzle.

• DO dust with a soft, long-handled brush with synthetic fibers.
• DON’T be afraid of cleaning velvet drapes. Dip a chamois cloth in hot water, wring out thoroughly, and then brush.

Window Blinds:

Vacuum fabric blinds with the soft brush attachment. Spot-clean with upholstery cleaner, but test it first in an inconspicuous spot to be sure the colors don’t fade or bleed. Greasy aluminum or PVC blinds should be placed in a bathtub filled with warm soapy water and rinse.

• DO protect the tub bottom with a towel.
• DON’T dunk the roller mechanism in the water. Be sure it stays dry in the process.

Upholstery:

Refresh upholstery with a vacuum with good tool airflow. Check Consumer Reports’ Ratings for models that scored well in that test. Vacuum the corners and all sides of cushions. If pets nap on the couch or chair, deodorize by sprinkling with baking soda and letting it sit for 15 minutes, or longer for tough odors, then vacuum.

• DO apply a cleaning product or rent a machine that cleans upholstery and carpet. A do-it-yourself job is likely to yield better results if done before the upholstery becomes badly soiled.
• DON’T use any cleaner, or let a professional steam clean with water and detergent without testing the cleaner on an inconspicuous spot first.

Launder Pillows:

Unless the care instructions say otherwise, most foam-filled and synthetic pillows can be machine-washed. Use the gentle cycle, warm water, and a mild powdered detergent.

• DO line dry pillows or place in dryer on moderate heat with clean towels to speed up drying. Add a clean tennis ball to help fluff the pillow.
• DON’T machine-wash down and feather pillows. Place them in a sink filled with warm water and powdered detergent. Hold the pillow under water until completely soaked and knead gently. Drain the water out and press down to extract as much water as possible. Roll it in a towel to prevent dripping and then unwrap it and spin in a washing machine for three cycles before drying.

Small leak, BIG waste!

Take the leaky toilet test!

One in four toilets is silenty leaking, wasting up to 28 bathtubs of water every month - enough to cost you $100.00 per year.

Check your toilet flapper first.



Inexpensive and easy to replace, the flapper is the number one culprit for most leaky toilets.  Your toilet's flapper holds water in the tank, but over time its seal can wear out, causing a slient leak.

• Rub the bottom of your flapper with your finger.  If you get streaks of rubber, the flapper should be replaced.
• Take your old flapper with you to the store when purchasing a replacement.  This ensures you get the right part for the job.
• Install your new flapper and take the leaky toilet test again to ensure you've stopped the leak.

Another quick test to see if you have a leak is to put a few drops of food colouring into your tank, give it 20 minutes and then check your toilet bowl.  If the colour has seeped into the bowl, you definitely have a leak!

Determine where your toilet is leaking - look at the waterline.  If the water level is below the overflow tube, follow Step 2 below.  If the water is spilling into the overflow tube, follow Step 3 below.

1.   Flapper Leak - The chain that controls the flapper may need to be adjusted for the flapper to sit properly on the valve seat.  If the chain is kinked, replace it with a ball-type chain.  If needed, tighten the nut that holds the toilet handle to adjust the trip lever properly.  Your toilet may run on because the valve seat is corroded or covered with mineral deposits.  Drain the toilet tank by flushing, then dry the valve seat and sand it smooth with sand paper.

2.   Water Level - Your tank water level might be too high, allowing water to run into the overflow pipe.  Turn the float rod adjusting screw clockwise to lower the water level one or two centimetres below the overflow tube.  Replace the screw if it's corroded or stripped.  Ensure the refill tube is securely inside the overflow tube and no deeper than five centimetres.

Life Expectancy on Home Components

Life Expectancy on Home Components
Below is a list of home components and the life you should expect from them. It should be noted that this can vary depending on the quality of these components as well as the quality of workmanship of installation.

Appliances
Of the major appliances in a home, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy, at 15 years. Dryers and refrigerators last about 13 years. Appliances with the shortest life spans are: compactors (six years), dishwashers (nine years) and microwave ovens (nine years). Some appliances don't meet their life expectancy, however, because changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences may make newer products more desirable. Also, how long they last depends on how much they are used.

Cabinetry and Storage
Kitchen cabinets are expected to last up to 50 years, medicine cabinets for more than 20 years and garage/laundry cabinets for 100 years or more. Closet shelves can last for a lifetime.

Concrete and Masonry
Masonry is one of the most durable components of the home. Chimneys, fireplaces and brick veneers can last a lifetime, and brick walls have an average life expectancy of more than 100 years.

Countertops
Natural stone, which is less expensive than a few years ago and gaining in popularity, can last a lifetime. Cultured marble, by contrast, is relatively short-lived, with an age expectancy of 20 years.

Decks
The life span of these can vary significantly according to different climates, but they should be around for a good 20 years under ideal conditions.

Doors
Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house stands, while vinyl and screen doors have life expectancies of 20 and 40 years, respectively. Closet doors are expected to last a lifetime, French doors for 30 to 50 years.

Electrical and Lighting
Floor and roof trusses and laminated stranded lumber are good for a lifetime, engineered trim for 30 years.

Faucets and Fixtures
Kitchen sinks made of modified acrylic will last 50 years, faucets will work properly for about 15. Bathroom shower enclosures can stick around for 50 years, although the shower doors could be in a serious state of decline in about 20 years. Shower heads last a lifetime, as will toilets, although tank components require some maintenance. The durability of whirlpool tubs ranges fairly widely - from 20 to 50 years - depending on use.

Flooring
All natural wood flooring, and marble, slate and granite will last for 100 years if they are well taken care of. Vinyl floors will endure for up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years and carpet between eight and 10 years, depending on traffic and care.

Footings and Foundations
Poured as well as concrete block footings and foundations last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing will protect foundations for about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating can start to spring leaks in 10 years, unless it cracks, in which case mortal damage is immediate. Concrete or cast iron waste pipes are made to last a century at least.

Framing and Other Structural Systems
Poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime, as will wall panels and roof and floor trusses. Softwood, hardboard and plywood average 30 years, while OSB and particleboard last twice as long.

Garages
Garage doors last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts for 20.

Home Technology
A built-in audio system will last 20 years, but security systems and heat and smoke detectors will only be around for five to 10. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.

Heating, Venting and Air Conditioning
HVAC systems need proper and regular maintenance in order to work, but even when they are pampered most of their components last only 15 to 25 years. Furnaces live for 15 to 20 years, heat pumps for 16 and air conditioning 10 to 15. Thermostats usually are replaced before the end of their 35-year life span because of technological
improvements.

Water Heaters
Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years.

Insulation and Infiltration Barriers
Cellulose, fiberglass and foam used in insulation materials will last a lifetime provided that they are not punctured, cut or burned; are kept dry; and are not subjected to UV rays. This pertains whether the insulation was applied as loose fill, house wrap or batts and rolls.

Job Site Equipment
Ladders last a lifetime, lifts eight to 10 years.

Molding and Millwork
Custom millwork and circular and spiral, pre-built and attic stairs are all expected to last a lifetime.

Paints, Caulks and Adhesives
Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, although home owners tend to repaint more often.

Panels
Hardboard and softwood panels are expected to last 30 years, while oriented strand board and particleboard have a life expectancy of 60 years. Wall panels are expected to last for a lifetime.

Roofing
Slate, copper and clay/concrete roofs have a 50-year life expectancy; asphalt-shingle roofs, 20 years; fiber cement shingles, 25 years; and wood shakes, 30 years. However, the life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, proper building and design, material quality and adequate maintenance.

Siding and Accessories
Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, engineered wood, both natural and manufactured stone and fiber cement will last as long as the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on the weather. Gutters made of copper can last 50 years, of aluminum, 20. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more; aluminum, 30 years.

Site and Landscaping
Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last 20 years; underground PVC piping, 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last a lifetime, and asphalt driveways should last up to 15 to 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they receive a new coat when they need one every 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a pool should do swimmingly for more than 25 years; the interior plaster and tile will start showing their age in about 10 to 25 years.

Walls, Ceilings and Finishes
They should stick around for the entire life of the home.

Windows and Skylights
Aluminum windows last between 15 and 20 years, while wooden windows can last upwards of 30 years.

Ice Damage: Prevention Tips for Homeowners

Ugh, ice and snow!

You might react to winter weather changes with some predictable grumbling, but your house has different ways of expressing itself.  Unfortunately, some of those expressions could result in ice damage that could’ve been prevented.  Here are some tips that can help homeowners avoid ice damage and protect their homes this winter and prevent minor trouble spots from becoming major repairs. 
"Wintertime in cooler regions presents a unique set of issues in the home that are not apparent during the summer," says Bob Didier, vice chair of the National Association of the Remodeling Industry’s marketing & communications committee. "Homeowners should inspect and repair both interior and exterior areas of their homes to minimize damage."

Exterior Winter Maintenance

Clean Gutters.  Keeping gutters clean goes a long way towards preventing ice damage at home.  By clearing leaves, sticks and other debris from gutters, melting snow and ice can flow freely.  Blockages in gutters and drain spouts can result in ice damming, or internal water problems causing water to drip from the ceiling and walls and cause costly damage. Blockages also run the risk of damage to exterior painted surfaces and the development of dangerous ice patches on walkways underneath overhangs.

Extend Drain Spouts.  Avoid ice damage by extending rain spouts should face away from your home -- ideally, projecting water five feet away from the home's foundation.

Trim Trees.  Safety is an important issue for you and others walking near your property during the winter months.  Trim trees and remove dead branches that can become weak from ice and snow build-up-possibly damaging your home or car, or injuring passersby.

Make Steps Safe.  Make repairs to faulty steps and handrails in front of your home to prevent injury from slipping on ice.

Seal Cracks.  Inspect your home for cracks or holes in outside walls and foundations.  Make necessary repairs to prevent ice damage.

Protect Pipes.  Use caulking to protect water pipes from ice damage.

Seal Roof Openings.  Make sure that skylights and other roof openings have proper weather stripping to prevent snow melt from seeping in and causing water damage.

Interior Winter Maintenance

Frozen Pipe Prevention.  Check your water pipes for cracks and leaks and have them repaired immediately. Wrap exposed pipes with heating tape to keep them from freezing. The temperature inside the walls, where pipes are located, is substantially colder and can fall victim to freezing.  Even if you want to keep your heat bill low when you're not at home, it's best to keep your thermostat at a minimum of 65 degrees to avoid freezing.

Install an emergency pressure release valve in your plumbing system as an added protection against freezing pipes. The valve helps lessens pressure caused by freezing pipes and reduces chance of pipes bursting. If you're concerned about your pipes freezing, learn how to shut the water off and know where your pipes are located.  If your pipes freeze, time is of the essence-the faster you can shut off the water or direct your plumber to the problem, the more chance you have to prevent pipes from bursting.

Enough Insulation.  Make sure your attics, basements and crawl spaces are adequately insulated and well-ventilated. Look for signs of moisture or surface discoloration. Under-insulating results in escaped heat that melts ice and snow on the roof. Water then refreezes, causing more snow and ice to build up resulting in a collapsed roof or ice damming.

Ideally, the attic should be five to ten degrees warmer than the outside air.  Well-insulated basements and crawl spaces will help keep the heat from melting snow. Insulation also helps protect pipes from freezing as well.

Fire Safety.  Check to see that your smoke and fire alarms are working properly and service your heating systems annually. Residential fires increase in the winter, so it is important to protect your family with working alarm systems and heating systems.

Keeping the Heat In

In addition to protecting your home, here are some tips to maximize heat this winter:

• Decrease drafts in the home by testing windows and doors for air leaks and sealing them with caulk or weather stripping.
• Install storm windows or plastic sheeting over single-pane windows or if a homeowner is considering a replacement, try specially coated double-pane windows designed to reflect heat back into the room.
• Clean or replace the air filter to maximize the efficiency of the heating system. Clean out ducts, warm-air registers, baseboard heaters and radiators too.
• Insulate ducts running through attics, crawl spaces and garages. Check for separation, holes and leaks and seal them.
• Seal the fireplace by keeping dampers closed when the fireplace is not in use. Or install glass doors to fit inside the opening when burning out the fire.  

Homeowners may consider repairing minor damages themselves, but they should first check to see if any products installed in the home are covered under the manufacturer's warranty. This may be the case in relatively new homes or those that have undergone recent renovations. Many manufacturers will not honor warranties if amateur repairs have been attempted. For repairs that are beyond the homeowner's skill level, a qualified contractor should be consulted.

With a little preventive maintenance now, you can avoid costly ice damage to your home this winter. 

Winter Driving Tips - Warming up the car

Winter Driving Tips - Warming up the car

- Jeff Voth, Yahoo! Canada Autos

Those of us who live in a four-season climate are used to the idea of allowing our vehicles to warm up on a cold winter's day. But with the technology in today's automobiles, is this still something we should be doing? The simple answer is no. For the most part, letting your vehicle idle for long periods of time in the cold is not only bad for the environment, but can cause serious damage to your engine and emission system.

In the past, most vehicles employed a carburetor to deliver fuel to the engine. Today, almost all cars, trucks and SUVs on the road use some form of electronic fuel injection. In a cold engine, the computer management system tells the fuel injectors to stay open longer allowing more fuel to flow into the engine in part to keep the engine running cool. Trying to warm up the engine at slightly above idle speed is actually doing the reverse and inviting additional problems.

Cold engines produce a much higher level of unburned hydrocarbons as fuel needs heat to burn efficiently. Even the best catalytic converter is unable to process 100 per cent while running at maximum temperature, so allowing the engine to idle for extended periods of time can start to clog the system.

In addition, spark plugs may also become plugged or dirty due to inefficient fuel burning. Older vehicles required regular maintenance, calling for spark plugs to be changed every 30,000 km. Today, almost all engines employ an electronic ignition system that requires spark plugs to be changed at intervals in the range of 100,000 km. An engine at idle for extensive periods of time could dramatically shorten the life of your plugs, causing you to spend hard-earned money on unnecessary service and maintenance.

A better approach is to start your vehicle and let it run for up to one minute before driving away. This will allow fluids to begin flowing through the engine and then warm up to efficient temperatures under normal driving conditions.

Should the temperature outside dip below freezing, allow a maximum of four to five minutes of idle time before driving away. This should be just enough time to clean off any snow or ice that may have accumulated on the windows. While you may not be warm as toast on the way into work or school, you will benefit by saving money at the pump and garage and by driving a vehicle that runs cleaner and more efficient for many years to come.

Profile on Jim Hamilton

JIM HAMILTON GOT MORE THAN AN INSPECTION

When he was selling his home 15 years ago - he got a career.

“I was going through a difficult period in my life around that time and I was unemployed. I was selling my house and I had an inspector come and look at the home,” says Hamilton, who has worked for HomeCrafters Home Inspection Services Ltd. since then and in 2009 bought the company.

“I had heard about home inspectors before and I thought it was intriguing, so I decided to become one.”

With his extensive experience in building construction, Hamilton decided to change his career path and began inspecting homes.

“It’s not what people think it is,” Hamilton says. “Most of the time you’re dealing with people, whether it be homeowners or Realtors. That, along with doing the inspections and the paperwork involved, make it pretty busy.”

Home inspectors visually inspect house and/or apartment systems and components, looking for damage or evidence of deterioration, amateur maintenance work or improperly installed components.

Hamilton’s day generally starts at 8:00 a.m. “The night before every shift, I pick up my inspection orders, which tell me where I have to go for my inspection the next day.”

With three inspections every day, Hamilton leaves directly from his home. “I usually get there around five to 20 minutes early so I can take a look around the outside of the home before anyone else gets there,” he says. “Then, once I’ve met with the Realtor and the homeowner, we go over the entire house, starting at the basement and working our way up to the attic.

“We look for major defects in areas such as the roof, the structure, plumbing, heating, electrical systems and the exterior,” says Hamilton. “We also give clients an idea of how the home works and where system controls are located.  We tag all emergency shut-offs in the home so they can be located quickly when needed.”

In order to be able to spot defects in a home, people who want to become inspectors must have a well rounded knowledge about the structures of homes and buildings and how they work. This can be acquired through a combination of training and work experience in areas such as power engineering, construction or architecture. They must also have good oral and written communication skills, good problem solving skills and be able to understand common building codes.

Once the inspection is complete, Hamilton prints out a report outlining the flaws in the home, describing in detail the methods used to identify problems in the home as well as what may be the result if repairs are not made.

While there are no set requirements for those interested in becoming inspectors, most companies require them to be certified carpenters, engineering technologists or have expertise in a similar field.

The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI) have a voluntary training program that many inspectors take.  "You can work in this industry without that training, but then you can't call yourself a Registered Home Inspector," Hamilton says.

Jim is a Journeyman Carpenter, is certified by CAHPI, ASHI (American Society of Home Inspectors) and is also a Level I Building Investigations Thermographer.

With more than 15 years in the Home Inspection industry and 10,000 plus inspections under his belt, you can trust that Jim Hamilton and HomeCrafters Home Inspection Services will keep you in good hands!

Helpful Hints For Winter

Helpful Hints For Winter:

1. Keep your headlights clear with car wax!  Just wipe ordinary car wax on your headlights.  It contains special water repellents that will prevent that messy mixture from accumulating on your lights and lasts upto 6 weeks! 
2. Squeak-proof your wipers with rubbing alcohol!  Wipe the wipers with a cloth saturated with rubbing alcohol or ammonia.  This one trick can make badly streaking and squeaking wipers change to near perfect silence and clarity.
3. Ice-proof your windows with vinegar!  Frost on it's way?  Just fill a spray bottle with three parts vinegar to one part water and spritz it on all your windows at night.  In the morning, they'll be clear of icy mess.  Vinegar contains acetic acid, which raises the melting point of water - preventing water from freezing!
4. Prevent car doors from freezing shut with cooking spray!  Spritz cooking oil on the rubber seals around car doors & rub it in with a paper towel.  The cooking spray prevents water from melting into the rubber.
5. Fog-proof your windshield with shaving cream!  Spray some shaving cream on the inside of your windshield and wipe it off with paper towels.  Shaving cream has many of the same ingredients found in commercial defoggers.
6. De-ice your lock in seconds with hand sanitizer!  Just put some hand sanitizer gel on the key and the lock and the problem is solved!